BlogLog 310712-190812 Mourilyan Harbour to Thursday Island

Dear all – finally we’re back in somewhat ‘civilized’ waters (read: mobile coverage) after spending the last 2 or so weeks in absolute isolation. Now able to update the blog before we rush into our next disconnected stretch – this time into the blue waters of the Gulf of Carpentaria and on to the Arnhem coast. To everyone’s dislike we dropped off Chris this morning and by now she would be back in our comfy home (I know where she’d rather be though!) busying herself for work. Work?! I will write to you next in a few weeks time. Next port: Darwin.

310712 – Hoisted anchor Mourilyan Harbour @ 08.37. Rounded Cooper point to pass High Island > on to Cape Grafton to drop anchor in Mission Bay @ 17.15. Nearing Cairns and the wind is picking up. Great sailing again today as we near 8 knots and the Casa is truly enjoying herself. Playing and jumping whales next to the boat!! The boomed Tall boy, Genoa and main are becoming our standard rig in winds ranging anywhere from abeam (halve wind) to downwind (voor de wind). It works great as the Tall boy, apart from propulsion, acts as a wind catcher that transfers its wind right into the waiting bulk of the Genoa. Chris is behaving mightily interesting when she takes a beer for use in her breadmaking (??). Of course we miss the exact point when she uses it and what for so we can only philosophize on its use. Chris takes pleasure in her newfound position and takes advantage of our curiosity to avoid dishwashing at night. Just a shorty morning trip into Cairns tomorrow, awaiting Frans’s arrival on the 3^rd. Daytotal 51.7nm – Grand total 928nm

Chris in her nopjes – The boomed Tall boy and the struggle to bring it in

010812 – Hoisted anchor Mission Bay @ 09.32. Followed bay around the False Cape to enter the canal leading into Cairns and all it has to offer. Moored in Marlin Marina @ 12.15. First day in Cairns – very upmarket impersonal marina with an office located 2^nd floor a block away. Nice bars and restaurants located around marina though – very fancy amenities block and a cool garbage-compactor machine. And the amount of tourists! American hockey mums, jogging Aussies, Japanese families and many many 18yo French and German backpackers. Solved the secret of beer-use in breadmaking: she’s making pastry to roll us some croissants! Not that the recipe involves a can of beer but in order to flatten her dough she used the handiest round tool available – a can of beer… Later I retrieved and drank it. Amazing how a few days on the water can mess up a boat that much – we spent most of the day cleaning as we intend to present Frans with a good first impression so as not to immediately chase him off. The possibility to shower after a week is too good to describe. Daytotal 8.5nm – Grand total 936.5nm

Hans in his little cabin – Our little V-berth

020812 & 030812 – Stayed moored at Marlin Marina Cairns. Explored town a bit and amazed ourselves as to civilization in general and tourism in particular (we don’t count ourselves tourists of course). Beautiful sunset beers in the Salthouse. Loads of laundry and a few small chores left before we hit the great unknown further north. Picked up Dr. Frans at the airport with our ‘rolling stoned’ peace-sign covered Wicked rental (no pics unfortunately!) who supplemented our threesome to a quartet and will join all the way to tropical Darwin. Thanks for joining! Our crew in true Aussie fashion: 1^st Mate, 2^nd Mate, 3^rd Mate and 4^th Mate. We expected a white-skinned tourist straight out of the Dutch summer but instead found us a pre-tanned world traveler, fresh enough to immediately come drink a cold beer before crashing. Great Turkish food and good company at night – all the best in the UK Frances! Stacked every nook and cranny aboard the Casa with food, beer and some water. Spoilables like fruit and veggies are dangling from the ceiling in their hammocks, giving the cabin a bit of a hippyish feel. With a quick fill-up of fresh stuff at end of world Cooktown this should last the 4 of us until we hit the Cape in a good two weeks off.

040812 – Left Cairns Marina @ 09.19. Took canal towards Double Island to turn straight to Low Islets NE off Port Douglas and drop anchor behind a beautiful sand cay @ 16.30. Here the reef comes quite far inshore – the moment we dropped anchor sharks and turtles circled the boat. Initially not too much wind forcing us to put motor by. Later better winds and sailed nicely. Picked up the eternal 330° we always seem to get back to. 4^th Mate Dr. Frans not too happy with the way he was keeping course but he made up later in the day. With all these hands aboard things do become easier! Early day tomorrow as we plan 60nm all the way to Cooktown. Daytotal 37.2nm – Grand total 973.7nm

Low Isles anchorage – Welcome aboard Dr. Frans – enjoying sunset beers

050812 – Hoisted anchor Low Isle @ 07.51. Followed coast N past Snapper Island and Cape Kimberley > rounded famous and beautiful Cape Tribulation just before a whale passed the Casa at a few meters near Lake Reef! So impressive…! On to Rattlesnake point, left Hope Islands to starboard > Rounded Rocky Island and Monkhouse point to finally view Cook’s grassy knob, round the bend into the Endeavour river to drop anchor in Cooktown right in front of the boatramp 15 meters from shore @ 18.20. Finked our first 1000nm in the Casa! Long day but great sailing in the absolute middle of nowhere. We’ll be seeing more of that… Perhaps seen 1 other boat today – we’re seeing more whales than boats! Chris has taken over the bread responsibilities – I must admit mine is like a massive scone while hers actually resembles regular bread – I should actually say surpasses regular bread as it’s really yummy! We finish a full bread over lunch and send Chris back into the galley to make more. Cooktown feels like the end of the world – rusty trawlers with rusty fishermen, this great little sleepy town where nothing happens, local people dissociate from time and modern society while all tourists enjoy their last supermarket, pub, postoffice and stock up on diesel and groceries before disappearing in the bush – or in our case further north along the coast. Daytotal 60.1nm – Grand total 1033.8nm

Snapper Island – a whale – Sailing past Cape Tribulation! – Chris’s smoooth bread

060812 – Hoisted anchor Cooktown @ 11.36 after doing last shopping for a while and filling up diesel tanks. Followed coast N to round Cape Bedford > past Low Wooded Island > Rounded Cape Flattery to drop anchor in its lee @ 17.40. Leaving Cooktown the wind was fairly weak but later picked up forcing us to fly the staysail instead of genoa. Still doing good speed though. Flattery Harbour beautiful anchorage –again– Chris behind the wheel ready for anchoring. I’ve got a feeling the fish are getting ready for being caught. Had a few near-bites today. Hans’s brand-new lure lasted for about an hour before (so he maintains) getting bitten off by a massive shark. I found a bottle of Dutch jenever to simultaneously anesthetize and euthanize our freshly-caught fish – it came up on deck a few times today but unfortunately could return to its cabinet untouched. Dr Frans has totally blended in and the quartet-crew is a great one. It takes a bit of organization before hitting the sack at night but ultimately he can lay claim to the biggest bunk of all. Which also means that he’s in the middle of the cabin and whenever anyone is up and around, chances are he’ll be up too. Daytotal 36.6nm – Grand total 1070.4nm

pre-tank prep in Cooktown – Beautiful Cp Flattery anchorage – Frans’s settee bunk

070812 – Hoisted anchor Cape Flattery @ 08.51. Set straight course towards Lizard Island to drop anchor in Mrs Watsons Bay @ 12.45. Relatively strong winds and heavy seas but really the first time we’ve had it all coming from the sides  making this passage a bit rolly – and wet at times! This deep-blue color of the water – wow! Great to be back @ Lizard – an incredible place. Dug up snorkel gear and ushered everyone into the water. First time I’ve seen wild corals for a long while. Still a bit chilly not wearing a wetsuit! Finally managed to de-attach the steering rudder of the windvane that had been dragging behind the boat hanging like a limp …stick ever since Mission Beach. Hard winds all through the evening and night kept swinging the boat around on the chain. Daytotal 19.3nm – Grand total 1089.7nm

Heavy seas on the way to Lizard – busyness in Mrs Watsons bay – sunsets at Lizard always amazing!

080812 – Hoisted anchor Mrs Watson’s bay @ 08.23. Headed straight west past Nymph reef and Coquet island and Newton Island until we hit the coast near Barrow Point. Rounded Barrow Island to drop anchor in its lee – Ninian Bay @ 17.35. Finally we caught a big Spanish Mackerel! Well again it was the paravane that did it – but fresh food on the table for at least 3 days. After being infused with a drink of jenever she went nice and limp ready for filleting – took me a while but then we had a few really nice and tasty chunks. Made sushi at night – poor Chris… Again whales and dolphins today – it nearly seems like old news! We’re getting numbed by all this rugged beauty! Awesome stars at night no light pollution and a late moon rising – stare and feel humble – we’re only a tiny little speck in this massive universe… Daytotal 55.2nm – Grand total 1144.9nm

An unlucky day in the life of a tasty Spanish Mackerel – note Hans being busted on camera in the first pic

090812 – Hoisted anchor Ninian bay @ 08.45. Picked up the old 330°, around North Bay Point > Cape Melville – we’ve been hearing  all about you on the weather forecast for the last months > Headed west towards the Flinders Group to sail through Owen Channel to drop anchor behind Flinders Island @ 14.15. Lovely day’s sailing with an early anchorage as this section of the coast doesn’t provide many good anchorages. No worries as we’ve been making good time and this is beautiful beautiful beautiful anchorage in between rugged red rocky islands. Hard to picture getting munched by a croc entering this clear blue water – better to be mindful though! Early pastalunch with ginger soy and mackerel – need to be creative with so much mackerel and few ingredients! The last few days we’ve been seeing the same guy in his blue yacht drawing up next to us in anchorages (I remember seeing him near Cairns even!) – he’s by himself and often gone early but we’re faster and overtake him during the day to steal the best spot in the upcoming anchorage. He obviously uses the same cruising guide as we do and follows the same instructions on where to anchor. Ran out of gas! Problem. Connected the little spare-not-sure-how-much-left tank and reserved the stove for breadmaking and under-sail coffee-brewing while reverting back to the little one-pit camping stove for dinner preparation. Where oh where to get gas in this outstretched country where nobody lives?? Daytotal 32.2nm – Grand total 1177.1nm

Another day in paradise: Ninian bay anchorage – great sailing – Flinders Islands – anchorage – late Mackerel lunch – 136yo dishwasher

100812 – Hoisted anchor Flinders Island @ 07.53. Followed inland shipping route past Wharton reef, Eden reef, Stainer Island, Magpie reef and Fife Island to finally drop anchor in the middle of nowhere behind this tiny little sand cay called Morris Island @ 18.15. Not much wind and the motor by until 4pm… It’s a bless to then finally shut the noisy thing off (though she’s been running like a charm!) and just be surrounded by wind and waves – and a bit of our own whale whaling created by the rudder. Prawn trawlers sleeping the day away in the lee off little islands and reefs we’ve been passing – for the rest no real signs of life. Deserted nothingness. Awesome deserted nothingness nonetheless. We’re on gas restrictions as we are on water rations (cook and wash dishes in salt water) – we’re not sure how much we have left and where to get more. Good thing we’ve got a few cans left to power that silly camping stove. Daytotal 58.6nm – Grand total 1235.7nm

Nice sailing and I even managed to snap a shot of DJ Dr Frans while his bodyguard is trying to block the lens

110812 – Hoisted anchor Morris Island @ 08.20. Passed the Drake shoals to get back into the shipping lane > Quake reef, Ellis reef, Bow reef, Waterwitch reef, Osborne reef > around Cape Direction and across Lloyd Bay > rounded the Old Man Rock off Cape Weymouth (another one of those weather forecast names!) to drop anchor in front of ‘outpost of civilization’ Portland Roads @ 18.00. This was definitely one of those days. 8.3 knots and great sailing! Never thought I’d really experience it but today we actually had a bunch of dolphins amusing themselves around our boat – swimming in front, playing around, jumping on the sides – all we could do was stare, utter wows and be stunned. And take some pics! It was like being in some amazing wildlife documentary – or (although I hate the song) this Enya videoclip: sail away sail away sail away. The whole spectacle lasted for about 15 minutes and then the dolphins left us as suddenly as they’d showed up, leaving us to close our mouths in wonder and adoration, dressed in a big smirk, slowly returning to reality. Early overtake of our Blue Neighbor and possibly the last few self-made breads as our tiny little spare gas tank may run out any moment. A minute of mobile coverage when passing the Lockhart River in the distance where there’s an aboriginal community – first chance at contact with the outside world since we left Cooktown 5 days ago. Quickly checked email but still no word whether I might have a job. Managed to let at least some people know we’re still alive. Iririo 12 weeks! Daytotal 61.7nm – Grand total 1297.4nm

Morris Island anchorage – some pretty unbelieving and unforgettable moments

120812 – Hoisted anchor Portland Roads @ 10.00. Passed Middle reef and sneaked out of the designated shipping lane to squeeze through Hazel and Gallon reefs in order to cut a bit of distance > Nomad reef and back in the shipping lane near Haggerstone Island > took the outside route around Cape Grenville and its satellite islands to drop anchor in Margaret Bay @ 17.00. Tried to get gas at Portland Roads this morning – had a pair of very friendly fellas from the fisheries patrol boat to take us into shore and drop our empty gas tank with a …man that managed the local ‘cafe’ to see if maybe he could fill it for us. Took it – told us he was busy and no time until the afternoon when we were to come back to pick it up. Immediately back to the boat – the patrol guys couldn’t stay as the water was getting low and their boat nearly stuck – no chance to get back out in the first 9 hours… they advised us to go back ashore and probably this guy would fill our tank immediately. So – managed to get the dinghy from underneath its strapping on the foredeck and blew it up for the first time since being in the water. Still remaining reasonably dry. Rowed ashore with oars that were way too long, making it a rather hilarious undertaking – for the people not rowing that is. Dragged it past all massive crocs and proudly beached with all limbs still attached. ‘Outpost of civilization’ Portland Roads consists of… well… 9 people and a dog the size of a small horse, with a neck the size of my upper body. A very friendly dog though – and good to play with Dog again. Chris wasn’t as enthusiastic as she wasn’t as keen on getting jumped up against and get squashed in the process. Disturbed the gas-man at his breakfast where he told us he really couldn’t help us as he was just way too busy. Preparing for the busy day ahead. We looked at the other 5 houses in the community and wondered where his customers were to come from. Had a chat with a bearded old hippy-fisherman who complained about the government taking away his fishing rights. Back to the boat with our still-empty tank. More dolphins on the way – no jumping in front of the bow though – was that a dream yesterday?? Dr. Frans broke the speed record doing 8.9 knots! Daytotal 47.1nm – Grand total 1344.5nm

Portland Roads – a romantic rowing abnormality – Margaret Bay – Frans telling us about the fish he usually catches when he’s out with his mates

130812 – Stayed @ Margaret Bay with the plan to sail very early next day. Beautiful anchorage (again) a little bit like Alligator Creek only 100 times as big. A tanned and cracked older couple (Mr and Mrs Crocodile Dundee they really do exist here) with a 20 (!) feet boat rowed up and warned us for some big crocs around so no swimming despite the heat and inviting clear waters. A couple of massive fish hung out underneath the boat – first we thought they were crocs because of their sizes – meter and a half at least – later saw they were actually fish – some kind of giant cod. Caught a few small ones for dinner and those monsters tried to snatch em off my hook! Our Blue Neighbor is back on our path after we missed him last night.

Margaret bay – me and my catch – beers over lunch and the cover-on

140812 – Hoisted anchor Margaret Bay @ 06.15. Sailed past Bird, Hannibal and Bushy Islets > Followed the coast North > Reid point, Shadwell point > crossed the Escape river bar at Sharp point > dropped anchor in the Escape River @ 17.30. Another awesome day in paradise. Didn’t see a single boat all day. Complete abandoned sea/landscape untouched by man or machine takes us back to the days of Captains Cook and Bligh and we wonder how these people explored and charted this rugged coast without the help of any measuring/navigational/refrigerational tools. And not hit reefs every second day… We’ve got great charts and GPS but at the same time we’d be utterly lost without our hacked navsoftware that nicely plots our position on a map! Heavy seas means hard work for the helmsman –big rolling waves need to be taken from behind. My hands are like torn sandpaper – much to Chris’s dislike. But hey all salts have rough hands yarrr! Sailing into the Escape River feels like working our way up the Amazone – big wide stretch of water lined by mangroves and thick forests – here we are the intruders. There’s some pearl farming activity going on and a couple in a speedboat come and say hi. They turn out to be the pearl farmers. The man looks like some Highlander that competes in tree-trunk hurling and advises us to drop anchor where we are. While Hans motors on and asks whether he has lobsters the lady tells us that a few weeks back a big big croc jumped 3 meters out of the water to mangle a Canadian (?) flag proudly flown from the stern of some yacht – in the exact spot we’re anchoring…! Jokes targeting my customarily peeing over the edge of the boat immediately ensue. Apparently this croc also likes to bump yachts at night for some obscure reason. Although we have pretty high sides, everybody makes sure all fingers and toes remain inside and often our eyes seek the water to see if we’re on the point of being harassed by a massive crocodile. At night we hear all kinds of funny noises. Into the Wild. Daytotal 72.2nm – Grand total 1416.7nm

Eerie croc infested Escape River

150812– Hoisted anchor Escape River @ 06.45. Passed the pearl farms in the shallows to cross the bar once more > passed Turtle Island and set straight course towards the Albany Passage. Surfed the current in the passage > spotted the Blue Neighbor anchored by himself in a beautiful bay and decided to join him as the tides don’t really allow a further sail towards Thursday Island > dropped anchor in Shallow Bay @ 10.30. Nearing the northernmost point of the Australian mainland the tidal currents can be pretty excessive and dominating. The last hour of the incoming current Albany Passage must still have had a couple of knots force left to suck us through – First there are big waves – then a whirlpool like a witches’ brew surges and swells at the entrance – once inside the water is perfectly flat as the current pulls all waveaction out and you feel like in these little ripcurrent boats in the Efteling – 8.5 knots, keep the wheel straight and plop! we’re through. Viewing Cape York the tip of Australia from our very pretty anchorage. The Blue Neighbor thinks it’s time to finally come and say hi and tuffs up in his little dinghy. With a mouth still including a few teeth he tells us his story and how he’s being a fugitive from Queensland justice – over a traffic fine… We resist the temptation for an 11 o’clock beer. The little gas tank luckily still provides and Chris treats us to all kinds of beautiful bread. Daytotal 22.3nm – Grand total 1439nm

Shallow Bay – Frans is undoing knots while Hans tells tales – we catch up with the Blue Neighbor

160812– Hoisted anchor Shallow Bay @ 08.05. Back on 330° and heading towards Cape York > Rounded York Island and into Flinders Passage between Horn and Wednesday Islands > crossed the Hovell bar to drop anchor @ Port Kennedy South of Thursday Island @12.30. Back into civilization. Mobile coverage and we see some other boats. Bright blue clear waters and a turtle bobbing its head up now and then. 4 knots current blasting us through the strait. While we try to moor on a buoy our rudder gets caught onto the line and we ride the current the wrong way around. Tried to attract attention by waving very hard – everybody is real friendly and waves back just as enthusiastically. Finally some guys with broad hats come and help us out which results in our rudder being stuck even more. I need to get into the water and while they hold back our boat – I manage to clear the rudder and we sweep in the right direction. Groceries – ice – beer – internet. No shower unfortunately… and Darwin still a long way off! We’ll stay here a few days before dropping Chris and continuing our journey – this time blue water passagemaking and no overnight anchor stops. Darwin in 2 weeks? To be continued.. Daytotal 25nm – Grand total 1464nm

Contemplation while rounding Cape York – Flinders passage – a troublesome buoy (note the devil’s horns!) – Chris and computergames?? – The Casa at TI and a beautiful dinner before taking off

BlogLog 200712-300712 Whitsundays to Mourilyan Harbour

Dear all it’s been a while since the last upload and my apologies for the hiatus – things have been a little hectic with Chris arriving and associated …adjustments, having to prepare a job interview and my computer crashing… However I’ve got things up and running on an external screen now but it took a little while. And – working backwards always takes some extra time!

200712 – Hoisted anchor Double Bay @ 08.53. Zigzagged between island following coastline north > rounded George point > took the long run around Gloucester island – wind totally gone what now?? After a while floating decided to run engine. First ok then suddenly horrible knocking noise and spontaneous revving – smells like burning rubber… uh-oh damn doesn’t look/sound/feel good – 2 sets of eyes stare at each other one set thinks this is going to be very costly the other thinks this is going to take lotsa time.. Right – set course straight into Bowen. Find mechanic while sailing in. It’s Friday afternoon.. No answers no answers nobody home – harbourmaster probably already in pub. Who listens to channel 16 anyway? Finally – some friendly lady somewhere picks up the phone – gone – comes back and gives me a number. I call Ben. ..Hawzagawnmayt? I try to make clear what our situation is while trying to decipher/make sense of what he says. We sail on (a freak northwind to bring us in??) and anchor at 1m deep while on sail. That at least went smooth as butter. Ben rocks up in his dinghy with homemade outboard – we try the engine – knocking/burning plastic – bad bad bad – Ben gets a mate on the phone, disconnects the plug that’s burning and charges us $150. Problem solved. What?! Cold start – not needed in Aus anyway this is for European climates we can do without. Right – we’re happy either way as it means it’s not going to cost lots of $$$ and lots of time. And we haven’t caught fire. Pfft relief. A small smirk dares to cross my lips and I wipe my brow – since the afternoon there’s been a crease there accumulating grime and sorrow. Now that we found the only diesel mechanic in town suddenly Bowen seems like a great little place after all. Our sunset drinks taste especially good. At night we’re tossed around on the waves like a hobbyhorse. Great anchoring skills. Another day of adventure in Paradise. Daytotal 30.5nm – Grand total 639.1nm

Anchorage in Bowen

 210712 – Hoisted anchor Bowen @ 09.05. Rounded North head and followed coast north towards Cape Edgecumbe > wind picks up and we set straight course towards Cape Upstart to drop anchor in its lee, Shark bay @ 17.15. Great sailing with a keen ear and nose on the engine but all seems fine. We’re having ~20 knots wind and doing good when wind drops again. Darkish clouds forming behind us… storm? – there were some gusts forecasted. All sails on deck and we manage to keep the 4 in the speedometer. In the end clouds turn out to be fairly innocent but spoil the perfect late afternoon picture moments at Cape Upstart – what a beautiful place that is wow. For some reason all capes are like those massive Sphinxfeet headlands dropping into the sea but this one is especially rugged with some great rock formations. What’s more – here I should mention Hans caught a fish. Fair’s fair. Well… She’s barely legal – probably illegal but fact remains – even though I sighted it, pulled it in and cleaned it – he caught it with his paravane. This has totally bottomed my credibility as the leading authority on fishing on board. The only authority I’ve got left now are marine algae… and coffee. All that remains for me now is to catch a bigger and tastier fish. And I will – to be continued. Very very tasty by the way 🙂 thanks Hans! Daytotal 40.5nm – Grand total 679.6nm

Leaving anchorage in Bowen, Hans and his fish – is it smelling my saddle??Beautiful cape Upstart

220712 – Hoisted anchor Shark bay @ 08.41. Crossed upstart bay so we ended up a little north of the Burdekin river mouth > followed coast north > Alva Beach – nobody kitesurfing?? The weather’s good.. > rounded Cape Bowling Green and crossed the bay to drop anchor in shallows (well the whole bay doesn’t get deeper than 3m..) at mouth Barramundi creek outside of Cungulla @17.05. Again a great day’s sailing – one can get used to good winds and sunshine! Rounding the cape we were just flying –  doing 8.5 knots on main, genoa and the boomed Tall boy mwhuhahaha! Anchoring is a bit eerie as we can’t find depth without being way out and very exposed – well we wouldn’t be able to as there just isn’t any. As long as the wind and swell are SE we’ll be fine but unfortunately the wind’s N and those nice long rolls bumping us up and down now that we’re nose in the wind. We’re preparing for being tossed around all night… Hans is fitting his stormjib stabilizer. Fish curry is great! Accidentally brewed a pot of regular instead of decaf and laying wide awake until late – getting excited as we’re nearing Townsville where we’ll pick up Chris. Daytotal 47.9nm – Grand total 727.5nm

Rounding Cape Bowling Green – Hans fitting his stabilizer stormjib

230712 – Hoisted anchor Barramundi Ck @ 08.29. Followed bay up to Chunda bay where we sail past Cape Ferguson where AIMS is located and I’ve spent a few great years. There are worse places to work. Unfortunately we didn’t get permission to dock as this is scientific research zone and only research vessels allowed in. Bummer. Rounded Cape Cleveland and set straight course to Townsville. Again, with those 3 sails up and a good 25 knots we nearly seem to be planing. The sight of the mouth of Alligator Creek in the sunshine brings a small tear to my eye. What lovely times we had there and what a beautiful place to live. Once again I realize I’m spoilt for life.. I’m being temporarily overwhelmed by a feeling of nostalgia while Hans is wearing the biggest grin I’ve seen him wear since we left – this is enjoyment behind the wheel – a wild and willing horse that needs a steady yet tender hand on the rains. This is how we enter good old TSV, throw down the sails and moor right unto the terrace of the Townsville Cruising Yacht Club – best place in the house but better make a clean entry! Our mooring scheme again works perfectly and we’re alongside the jetty in no time. The 5-minute-later cold beer tastes divine and is down in 10 secs. After the second ready for a nap. That’s the moment I get called by AIMS with the announcement I’ve been shortlisted for the job I applied for, they’d like to make an appointment for an interview. I try to suppress my 3pm drunkenness and believe I manage reasonably. Or so I hope. It’s good to back in town – while Hans retreats into his little space-hut and has a nap, I stroll into town at tempo zero and find myself a tourist. It’s great catching up with people and I’m counting down till Thursday when we’re to collect Chris. Daytotal 28.2nm – Grand total 755.7nm

Sailing past AIMS and Cape Cleveland – 2 scruffy men in need of shower

240712 – 260712 – Stayed moored at yachtclub in good ol’ TSV. It was an actual pleasure being back in town and the opportunity to catch up with friends not seen for a while. As always when returning somewhere we’ve lived for any number of years, nothing really changes. The people are the same – apart from a few odd ones left (or returned) but the core and the feel remains. And snap! You’re back. Alicia congrats on that little girl growing inside you – it was great seeing the both of you so happy (and exhausted!). How cool you all came by to say hello and take a peek at our red Tank. Vivi agreed to chauffeur me around town after I bestowed her with lunch on Wednesday – she contentedly watched as I parted with the last remains of credit left on the card… Last chart place on the coast – nowhere to turn to now – and still 20 charts left to Darwin…! Dinner at En’s place – thanks for letting me borrow your car! Cleaned the whole boat for the lady to scrutinize. Shaved and showered. Hans and Joost side by side at the hairdresser. Collected Chris from the airport Thursday morning how nice was that! Proudly showed boat still floating and over 750 miles done. Great news :):) Happy mums (2 and a bit!). More dinnerparties and too quick sad goodbyes. Get ready to sail early Friday.

The Casa in TSV

2760712 – Left Townsville yachtclub @ 08.35. Followed coast along Pallarenda beach > crossed Maggie channel to set course to Rattlesnake, Havannah and Fantome islands to drop anchor in Little Pioneer bay (Orpheus Island) @17.45. Weather still great. Freshly stocked with food and hands we have loads of energy and make good headway. Unfortunately very little wind and as we need to make some distance we have the motor by the entire day. Great to finally have Chris aboard! Lack of wind during the day is made up at night when the winds pick up and of course that never-except-for-now-occurring westerly swell directly penetrates our little anchorage and lets us dance the entire night. Hans spends most of the night in the cockpit with little cushions covering his feet (?) looking out for that million+$ cat we may hit once the anchor cuts loose. Fortunately it doesn’t but it’s probably been the most uncomfortable night yet. Poor Chris great way to get into things… Daytotal 47nm – Grand total 802.7nm

Father and daughter enjoy the Casa – a bit of entertainment before the all-night dance…

280712 – Hoisted anchor Little Pioneer bay @ 10.56. Late start as winds don’t allow for early morning sailing fun. Besides which we don’t need to go very far today. Straight course set towards Hinchinbrook island and sandwich point to drop anchor around the corner, in Shepherd bay  @16.30. We all feel miserable as we haven’t slept all night and look forward to comfortable anchorage. At least my bread turned out great. Hinchy looks beautiful as always. The fact we have beer again for sunset toast makes up for lots of things. Daytotal 27.3nm – Grand total 830nm

Anchorage in Little Pioneer bay – always busy with the Tall boy

290712 – Hoisted anchor Shepherd bay @ 08.45. Great winds. Rounded South, Middle and North islands > passed Dunk island > sailed along Mission beach (spotted no cassowaries) to drop anchor behind Clump point/Bingil bay @ 13.54. We’re all in good spirits as we all had a good night’s sleep. Need to find anchorage with mobile reception as I’ve got job interview in the morning – getting nervous… beautiful anchorages again again again and again – 13 in a dozen here – however bit rolly. Hans strings up his stormjib-stabilizer again and things get better – somewhat. Dolphins with babies playing next to the boat. Tiny little tails splashing in the water. We hope to catch a glimpse and get in as well – second time in the water since leaving Scarborough… but already much warmer than in the Whitsundays! Of course the dolphins immediately bugger off and only get back once we’re out again.. Satisfied brother and wife with massive grins on skype. No luck getting through to the other brother. Jobinterview-stress at night. Daytotal 27nm – Grand total 857nm

Great sailing along the Cassowary coast – no rest for the wicked

300712 – Hoisted anchor Bingil bay @ 12.03. Cautiously traversed around reefs outside of Murdering point (the names keep getting better as we travel up the coast!) to pass the Sister islands and Kent island. Lively discussion on which is the entrance to Mourilyan Harbour, we find it (of course Chris is right) and enter to drop anchor @ 16.10. Actually I haul it back up 2 times and we drop it 3 times before we’re nice and snug. I’m sure I’ll feel a strong man in the morning – I’m also sure I’ve got a sore back now… Interview this morning bit strange with closed-off boat, chased-out fellow shipmates and clapping halyards in the mast. Difficult to hear – sometimes hard to understand > could have done better. We’ll see where we end up. Out of my hands now and concentrate on Chris, sailing and what’s left of my PhD. Hung for a while behind windvane getting it disconnected and after an hour or so – failed… Chris’ bread much smoooother than mine – then again she IS much smoooother and this obviously reflects in her bread. My crust is better though (I’m more crusty?? Definitely!). Mourilyan great natural harbor with high natural cliffs/hills on all sides, a sugar-loading facility on one end and a bay/mangrove/shallows/rocky bottom part on the other end. We haven’t had a night this still, like being in a marina with no one else around! Taters and veggies – clear out what hasn’t gotten rotten yet and eat it while it lasts. Last day before having to dig into the canned tuna and inventive recipes. If, and only if, we still haven’t caught a fish… Finally getting my computer back up and running so I can post some literature n’ pics. Daytotal 19.3nm – Grand total 876.3nm

Mourilyan harbour anchorage – my bread. Chris’s bread hasn’t been uploaded yet so at the moment there’s no comparison!

BlogLog 010712-190712 Brisbane to Whitsundays

010712 – Left Scarborough @ 06.30. Followed westside Deception Bay > Skirmish passage > Caloundra > entered Mooloolaba marina @ 13.30. Feels great to be traveling on my own boat! Not much wind though motor by entire way. Daytotal 36.7nm

Leaving Scarborough and moored in Mooloolaba marina

020712 – Left Mooloolaba marina @ 06.25. Followed coastline north towards Noosa Heads > rounded Double Island point and entered Wide Bay bar – big rolling waves! > dropped anchor Pelican Bay @ 17.45  – dusk. Not much wind motor by great part of way. Had a few hours flying both genoa boomed out and the 150% genoa on – in combination with staysail and main >150m² sail – awesome arty pics but that sail is staying down as far as I’m concerned – way too heavy! Dolphins on the way – and dolphins in the bay. Daytotal 60.5nm – Grand total 97.2nm

Some arty farty sailing pics and anchored in Pelican Bay

030712 – Hoisted anchor Pelican Bay @ 09.40. Highish tide not the best for traveling south Sandy Strait – current against us > Wide Bay Harbour > entrance Gary’s anchorage > stuck @ 13.30… Loose again @ 15.15 > Boonlye point > Turkey island – another place not to be at low tide… Hit ground several times and finally made it past flats back into deeper water > passed Alligator creek! > dropped anchor South White cliffs/Bennett creek opposite Mary river entrance @ 19.40. Not much wind motor by entire way. Beautiful and deserted. Way to go would be leave at low tide, ride the incoming towards halfway, and ride the outgoing tide back out. Gives you at high tide at shallowest points too.. Ok next time. Daytotal 29.1nm – Grand total 126.3nm

Sandy Strait

040712 – Wind! Hoisted anchor Bennett creek @ 09.30. Open water to North White cliffs > passed Kingfisher Bay resort > Blackfellow point > exited Sandy Strait @ Moon point. Thought of anchoring off Rooney’s point (North Fraser) for the night and head towards lady Musgrave island next morning but decided against it as weather forecast very nasty – bad weather coming up our backs – decided to make a run for it and sailed through the night direction Gladstone. Full moon great visibility beautiful winds ~25 knots maybe bit more, dropped genoa as wind got a bit out of control and continued on staysail and reefed main. Lovely feeling of getting acquainted with your boat – she managed beautifully! Surfing over heavy seas. Averaged 7 knots so made some fine distance. Great night sailing – very very cold though! At dawn approached Round Hill head > continued to Bustard Head/Clew’s point to drop anchor in Pancake creek @10.30 050712. Tired and happy. Daytotal 130nm – Grand total 256.3nm

   No nightsailing pics so just some random photography

060712 – Windswept in Pancake creek. Wrote job application yes yes and had the police drop by to inform us state registration was necessary after all… Got off with infringement warning when promised to take care of rego asap. If not registered within 2 weeks, $$$ to pay. Baked bread for the first time in life – turned out well nice and crusty like a gigantic scone yummy. No pics sorry.

070712 – Windswept in Pancake creek. Even Hans is scratching his beard. It’s a good thing our bunks are on separate ends of the ship.

080712 – Hoisted anchor Pancake creek @ 05.22. Followed coast NW towards Cape Capricorn > Hummock island > Great Keppel in view > rounded Double Head to moor in Rosslyn Bay marina @ 18.30. Had tallboy boomed out in combination with genoa – seems the way to go if winds allow. Hans is keen for the Tall Boy. Gotta find a best way to get it in though – spent several minutes lying panting on foredeck after completing task… Just when entering harbor of course started pouring down – not a very neat docking procedure > better prep necessary! We blame the bicycle for being entirely in the way. Beautiful sailing day though – winds up to 30 knots easing to 25 in afternoon. Pasta canned tuna is getting a bit boring after 3 days… A very well deserved shave and shower even though I’m too tired to stand – bliss… Daytotal 78nm – Grand total 334.3nm

        Two-men crew

090712 – Stayed in Rosslyn Bay with horrible weather forecasted. Nice marina though. Courtesy car available! Went into Yeppppooon for fresh groceries and arranged QLD rego – $430 for 5 mins work and a sticker.. please come again. But we have official number now: VH234Q. Moved bicycle somewhat out of the way.

100712 – Rain rain rain heavy winds big swell > stayed in Rosslyn Bay. Applied for serious AIMS job.

110712 – Left Rosslyn Bay marina @ 08.33. Followed coast North past Yeppppoooon > Waterpark point > Five rocks > Cape manifold > rounded Cape Clinton to drop anchor in south arm port Clinton under lee Mt Flinders @17.30. Nice anchorage. Big seas. Motored most of the way – why either too much wind or no wind at all?? Still no fish. Daytotal 43.3nm – Grand total 376.6nm

Port Clinton anchorage

120712 – Hoisted anchor port Clinton @ 09.00. Followed coast more or less to Clara group  > Steep island > straight to Percy group – passed South island on way to Middle island to drop anchor in West Bay @ 21.15. Heavy rain when coming in to anchor. Absolute pitch blackness after sundown – somewhat discomforting with islands all around – need complete trust in gps/map. Little wind mainly motored. Still no luck with getting the windvane to do what WE want – Aries keeps evading us. Pretty anchorage as we saw next morning – very rolly. Daytotal 63.6nm – Grand total 440.2nm

Sailing towards Percy isles – and our neighbour in some nice rollers

130712 – Hoisted anchor West Bay @ 09.28 to follow southern coastline Middle Percy to drop anchor again in Whites Bay @ 11.10. Northerly winds! Beautiful spot too bad everything’s grey. Daytotal 6.3nm – Grand total 446.5nm

Anchorage in West Bay and Hans in his little space cabin

Beautiful deserted Percy’s, White’s bay anchorage and Hans in his element

140712 – Hoisted anchor Whites Bay @ 08.43. Northwesterly course towards Beverly group > Digby island > Double island to drop anchor westside Prudhoe island @ 18.00. No wind at all motored whole day. Hazy gray sunny funny weather bit threatening. Jumping whale next to boat! Demolished beautiful fringing reef @ Prudhoe when anchoring in dusk – and where did that lone overnight fisherman in his dinghy come from?? He’s over 25nm offshore! And there’s a storm forecasted next day… Daytotal 44.5nm – Grand total 491nm

White’s bay anchorage and eerily flat seas on the way to Prudhoe

150712– Hoisted anchor Prudhoe @ 03.45… Middle of night. Storm. Rain. Scraping. Grounded. Breaking corals. Heavy seas. 1 lone crazy fisherman in a dinghy… Let’s get out of here! Ran straight into Mackay outer harbor and arrived @ 09.50. First few hours in darkness bit trialing with big big seas, pure absolute blackness and all trust in the navgear.. But Hans handled it like the true Long John Silver he is. And the Casa too! Looks like she likes wind & waves! Still keeps dry. Zigzagged in the fog through massive tankers on anchor laying await to get into Hay point. Chinese coal tankers registered in Panama. Bit surreal. Glad we’re in – rain rain rain. Daytotal 29.2nm – Grand total 520.2nm

Sorry – no time for pics! So I inserted Long John Silver

160712 – Windswept in Mackay marina. Bloody diesel spill. Electrical problems. Keeps a man (actually 2) busy.

170712 – Left Mackay marina @ 08.54 after fuelling up. Straight to the Sir James Smith group via Brampton island > dropped anchor Goldsmith island @ 14.00. Lovely sailing 20-25 knots wind. Miserable weather but doing 7-8 knots with wind straight in the back and genoa on the boom. Stupid bicycle – used only once but ALWAYS in the way. Lovely anchorage. All by ourselves – we’re getting spoilt. Hans is very proud of his handiwork sawing a piece of the hatch that stabs in the back when standing behind the wheel. Makes both of us happy. Now how do we attach a little cushion there? Gotta stay comfy. Daytotal 28.7nm – Grand total 548.9nm

Anchorage at Goldsmith Isle

180712 – Hoisted anchor Goldsmith island @ 08.37. Sailed north towards Burning point and took the channel between Shaw and Lindeman islands > Solway passage > Whitehaven beach (ok the sands are as white as advertised) > dropped anchor Apostle Bay @ 15.10. Lovely little bay and beautiful sailing. Still miserable weather though… grey/rain patches. The boom didn’t like me today. Neither did I like him (somehow I presume it to be a him??). Out of beer and STILL haven’t caught any fish – I had imagined that differently. Once the sun comes through I’m gonna find me a reef and spear one. Hans is preparing his paravane and will now try and catch the first fish – can’t let that happen – will sabotage his hook tonight and will only let him read this when I’ve caught MY first fish. An amazing desolate spot – finally some rest. A manta ray feeding in circles some 50m from the boat late afternoon – is that a dugong snorting?? Heard it twice now – only thing I can imagine as it isn’t a turtle, dolphin or whale… late at night – anchor scraping? Doesn’t seem like it just crunching up some corals… Daytotal 32.1 nm – Grand total 581nm

Goldsmith anchorage, sailing towards fog-hidden Whitsunday isles, the Casa along Whitehaven beach and Apostle bay anchorage

190712 – Hoisted anchor Apostle Bay @ 08.37. Fog. Sailed northwest along Whitsunday island coast towards Whitsunday Cairn > through Hook Passage – odd currents > what’s that?! – no way! Sun is coming through! Been at least a week since we saw her… And I thought it was always beautiful weather in Australia?! > Left beautiful but tourist-hyped Whitsundays behind and set straight course towards Grimston Point to drop anchor in eastern Double Bay @ 14.45. Good thing Hans hasn’t caught fish either. For a change justHa absolutely lovely weather with sunshine and 15-20 knots wind. Immediately got sunburned of course. Great little bay (again) and had a swim (the first one since we took off! Brrr cold) to see how our late scrapings had damaged the hull. It hadn’t – just some paint gone. Forecast Ok-ish and maybe we’ll head into better weather now?? Wow stars!! Daytotal 27.6nm – Grand total 608.6nm

Sailing the Whitsundays, Double bay anchorage – finally some nice weather!

Scarborough hull- and other works

After getting ‘Orianne’ from her snugly drystand in the yard to the hardstand in the workdock – there was quite a bit of scraping, grinding, banging, sanding, painting, painting and antifouling involved before she’d feel nice and protected for at least the coming months (Authors note: Though it may look like Hans is doing ALL the hard work – looks are deceiving – it’s mainly that I’ve been doing MOST of the photography. And provided the beer. It should also be mentioned Chris did most of the creepy crawly nasty spots – I just can’t seem to find the pics??). Anyways – we cleaned her inside and out (and she could use it too – dirty girl!), got some power into her in the form of a threesome of heavy duty marine batteries and did some engine/sea cock work. Changed the cabling and sheaves in the rudder quadrant and many many more hours of silly little but nevertheless necessary jobs – or at least I was given that impression.. Countless trips to Bunnings, BCF, AT&S and related ‘please-come-again’ businesses… For some reason the bankaccount felt very much appreciated during this period and enabled the local chandlery to retire a year early… Maybe the Casa is not such a bright name after all, at this stage ‘bottomless pit’ would have been more appropriate.. Hopefully this doesn’t continue or we can immediately sell the boat once in Darwin. Either way – we continue and this trip will not be taken from us – reef and sunshine yes?!  The stove fell apart when touched and forced us to keep a lookout for a new unit. After a mis-hit with a silly yellow camping stove that didn’t fit the tanks, we decided it would be in everybody’s interest to insert a shiny stainless neo offshore – with thanks to parents from both sides who made very kind donations in order to make this happen. -THANKS!- And we’re ready for launch!

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Hold breath for a few seconds….

But yes! – she floats! Hurray – time for sunset beer!